We've been in the Skeena less than an hour. Seiler fly fishes to pass the time. I scrutinize the banks of the river, stare deep into the promising hiding grounds of western hemlock, red cedar and sitka spruce for a favourable sign. Nothing. Bear viewing is all about patience. "Patience and luck," says Seiler, "they have no schedule and that's what makes them unpredictable. Because the food source is everywhere, there's not any one particular fishing hole, so they tend to wander." The excess rain has made the Skeena exceptionally high, dispatching their food source over many kilometres.

Engrossed in conversation about the politics of harvesting grizzly, I am oblivious to our visitor's arrival. Without warning, she emerges from the forest fifty metres in front of us. Pointing down stream, Seiler directs my attention. "There's a grizzly," he says matter-of-factly. In an instant, my heart beats seemingly in two places-my chest and my throat. We proceed slowly and make our way to shore. The 300-kilogram sow ambles into the river, her distinguishing shoulder hump poking out of the water like a mini-dorsal fin. Following in tow, two 90-kilogram cubs with fluffy tufts of light-brown fur, epitomizing the "ahhh, aren't they cute," teddy-bearlike image. But these are wild animals, and far from anything on a toy shelf.

We manage to secure a safe distance at 30 metres. The water between us acts as a makeshift barrier, and we're a quick dash to the pickup. "She definitely knows we're here," says Seller, "and she's already assessed that we pose no threat to her or her cubs." Groaning and grunting, the cubs cavort on the shore, anxious for the salmon their mother handles between her paws. But she is in no hurry. With ease and precision, she splits a fleshy pink open like a Christmas cracker, pulling with her teeth and paws until the centre gapes open, oozing masses of brilliant red roe-salmon eggs. She has won the salmon lottery. The most nutritious (aside from the brain) portion of the fish. She gorges on one, two, three salmon, before her young give up growling and join her midstream. I observe in complete and utter awe. But not without reservation. I am acutely aware this animal has the potential to charge at any moment-or even worse-maul me